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SHRI RAGHAVENDRA TOURS. ankshri@gmail.com

TREKKING IN LADAKH

SPITOK TO HEMIS VIA THE MARKHA VALLEY

Highest Altitude: 3,850mDuration: 17 Days

Also known As: The Classic Markha Valley Trek

It is short drive from Leh to Spitok, which has the monastery considered to be one of the oldest monasteries in the upper Indus Valley, founded at the same time as Thikse and Likir. The monastery, like Thikse, is situated on a hilltop with a commanding view of the valley.

Day 01: Arrival in Delhi, flight to Leh.

 Day 02: Tour of Leh city, including the 17th century Palace and Gompa.

Day 03: Tour of Spitok and Phyang gompas.

Day 04: Tour of Shey and Matho gompas and Stok palace, the home of Ladakhi royalty.

Day 05: Tour of Tikse and Hemis gompas, two the wealthiest and most influential institutions in Ladakh. Camp at Hemis.

Day 06: Trek from Hemis to the village of Chogdo.

Day 07: Trek to Kongmaru La base camp.

Day 08: Rest day for acclimatization.

Day 09: Trek over Kongmaru La (5,150m) to the plain of Nimaling, a vast high altitude pasture.

Day 10: Trek through the tiny settlements of Hankar and Umlung to the valley's largest village, Markha.

Day 11: Trek to the lovely oasis at Tunespa.

Day 12: Trek to the village of Skiu, with its med review Gompa. Day 13: Trek to Zanskar River. Take the Pulley Bridge across before boarding the rafts on the Zanskar River. Ride the river to its confluence with the Indus at Nimu, then board jeeps for the trip to Alchi. Overnight stay at Alchi village.

Day 14: In Alchi, we tour the remarkably well preserved 11th -century Gompa and the famed frescoes within. In the afternoon, we return by jeep to Leh.

Day 15: Rest day in Leh.

Day 16: Morning flight to Delhi. Check into hotel there and stay overnight.

Day 17: Transfer to Airport for flight to onward journey.

Alternative Trek: There are two approaches to the trek up the Markha valley. The first is via Spitok, Jingchan and Rumbak villages to the base of the Ganda-la; the second approach is via Stok village and over the Namlung-la to join the first route at Rumbak village. For those who are fit and well acclimatized, the Stok approach provides breathtaking views of the Indus valley as one ascends to the Nanlung-la (4,570m). Normally, one night is spent camping in the gorges above Stok, crossing the pass the following day before descending to Rumbak village. If one is not well acclimatized the first route via Spitok and Jingchan is the better alternative.

Day 01: Spitok to RumbakDay

02: Rumbak To Yurutse & CampDay

03: Camp To Ganda La, Markha Valley & SkiuDay

04: Skiu To MarkhaDay

05: Markha To Nimaling

Day 06: Nimaling To Kongmaru La & ChogdoDay

07: Chogdo to Hemis

GETTING AWAY: The bus from Hemis to Leh departs around midday and takes about two hours to reach. The bus stops on the way at Thikse monastery and Shey palace, where there are small hotels for overnight accommodation.

LAMAYURU TO CHILING VIA THE DUNG LA

Highest Altitude: 4,820m

Duration: 5 Days

Alternate Trek: Sumdo Chinmu Village To Alchi Via The Stakspi La

The old caravan route to Lamayuru diverges from the Kargil-Leh road at the Fatu-la. As one descends from the pass, one can appreciate the impressive line of Mani walls and contents, which lead down to the village.

Day 01: Lamayuru To Wahlah

(Average walking time 3 ½ to 4 hours)

Day 02: Wanlah To Hinju

(Average walking time 4 to 5 hours)

Day 03: Hinju Via Konze La To Camp

(Average walking time 6 to 7 hours)

Day 04: Sumdo Chinmu To Base Of Dung La

(Average walking time 3 to 4 hours)

OPTION: SUMDO CHINMU VILLAGE TO ALCHI VIA THE STAKSPI LA

From Sumdo Chinmu follow the trail down the valley past the base of the Dung la. This entails following a rough trail, which crosses the river several times before it diverts to a side ridge to the north of the valley. The trail then leads up and over to the village of Sumdo Choon.

(Note: Sumdo Choon 'little village, Sumdo Chinmu 'big village')

At Sumdo Choon there is a small monastery affiliated with Alchi. Above the village there is a trail leading to the base of the Stakspi la (4, 970m). On the second stage there is a short, steep ascent to the Stakspi la and grand views of the Ladakh range. The trail descends quite steeply to a small grazing area and shepherds' shelter and a possible campsite. (This is a useful camp spot if one is doing the trek in reverse out from Alchi.) It is a further three hours down to Alchi (3,200m), where there is a regular campsite cum restaurant close to the monastery. A further three to 4-km along the jeep track takes one to the Alchi Bridge and the main highway to Leh.

Day 05: Dung La To Chiling (3,350m)

GETTING AWAY: The road was completed to Chiling in October 1995, however, there is no bus service yet. The alternatives are to arrange for a jeep to come from Leh to pick one up, or to trek down the valley for a further stage to Nimmu and the Indus valley.

A further option is to trek up the road to the pulley bridge over the Zanskar River. Cross the river and then continue on the opposite, true right side of the river to the confluence with the Markha valley. The trek up the valley to the confluence should take no more than two to three hours and from there it is a further two hours to the village of Skiu.

For most people Kargil is just an overnight stop on the road between Srinagar and Leh or Padum. Yet before 1947 its position at the confluence of the Suru and Drass Rivers made it an important trading town, linking Kashmir and Ladakh with Gilgit and Baltistan.

PANIKHAR TO HENISKOT VIA THE KANJI LA

Highest Altitude: 5,290m

Duration: 7 Days

Alternate Trek: Kanji To Lamayuru Via Yogma La

Villagers and Buddhist monks have followed the treks out of the Suru Valley for many generations and much of the trade between the Zanskar Valley and the Indus was Lao carried out from Suru Valley only. For most people, the trek to Pannikhar to Heniskot or Lamayuru is an extension of the trek from Pahalgam in Kashmir. The trek can be completed from the end of June when the snow begins to melt on the highest pass; the Kanji La.

Day 01: Panikhar (3,350m) To Parachik (3, 550m)

(Average walking time 5 hours)

Stage 02: Parachik To Shafat (3,850m)

(Average walking time 6 hours)

Day 03: Shafat To Rangdum (3,980m)

(Average walking time 5 hours)

Day 04: Randgum (3, 980m) To Kanji La Base Camp (4, 250m)

(Average walking time 5 to 6 hours)

Day 05: Kanji La Base Camp To Camp

(Average walking time 7 hours)

Day 06: Camp To Kanji Village (3, 875m)

(Average walking time 2 to 3 hours)

Day 07: Kanji Village To Heniskot

(Average walking time 2 to 3 hours)

OPTION: KANJI TO LAMAYURU VIA YOGMA LA

This option takes three to four stages to complete. From Kanji village follow the trail up the valley coming in from the east to camp below the Yogma la. This trek up the valley takes a couple of hours through the outlying fields and small settlements, which are occupied by the villagers during the summer months.

The climb on the next stage to the Yogma la is deceptively easy and affords good views of the immediate gorge country. The descent to the meadow below the pass takes a further 1-½ hours. Camp here, or continue down to the Shilakong gorge, further three to four hours, with steep descents in places.

On the third stage one descends through spectacular gorges where huge cliff faces block out the sun for all but a few hours each day. Along the valley floor there are plenty of river crossings, which can prove hazardous after a summer storm. The time taken to reach Shila village, at the foot of the gorges, can therefore vary greatly. On average it takes five to six hours, leaving time the same day to visit the Wanlah monastery.

On the final stage, the trail leads up to the Prinkiti la. This is a hot stage once the sun hits the narrow gully. From the pass it is a further hour down to the monastery at Lamayuru.

GETTING AWAY: If travelling from Heniskot to Leh, remember that most vehicles leave Kargil in the early morning, so one should be at the trailhead by 9.00 am to ensure one gets to Leh that evening. Getting to Kargil is more relaxed, as most vehicles don't reach Heniskot till 3.00 PM. Alternatively, if going onto Lamayuru, the drive from Heniskot over the Fatu la takes about one hour.

For extending trek out of Lamayuru, then one will have to backtrack over the Prinkiti la; then continue to Alchi or to the Markha valley to Leh. Alternatively, head to the Zanskar valley and Padum via the Singge la before returning by road to Panikhar and Kargil.

PADUM TO LAMAYURU VIA SINGGE LA

Highest Altitude: 5,050m

Duration: 10 Days

Alternate Trek: Lingshet To Rangdum

The Zanskar region is a small and isolated Buddhist kingdom wedged between the main Himalayas and the Zanskkar Range. It comprises of two narrow valleys - the Stod Valley in the northwest and the Tsarap Valley in the southeast, which converge at Padum, the administrative center of the region.

Day 01: Padum To Karsha (3, 600m)

(Average walking time 2 hours) Note: that if you're coming from Kargil, it is possible to drive straight to Karsha and avoid this first stage. This very short stave allows one time to visit the monastery at Karsha, which is one of the most important in the Zanskar region. The route can be clearly seen from Padum and can, if one chooses, lead through some villages away from the road. Follow the trail from Padum towards Pipiting village. And from there, cut across the fields to the bridge over the Stod River just above the confluence with the Zanskar River. There is a campsite just beyond the bridge, or alternatively, walk up to the village at Karsha, where there are some lodges where one can spend the night.

Day 02: Karsha To Pishu (3, 470m)

(Average walking time 4 to 5 hours)

Day 03: Pishu To Hanumil (3, 380m)

(Average walking time 4 to 5 hours)

Day 04: Hanumil To Snertse (3, 850m)

(Average walking time 5 hours)

Day 05: Snertse To Hanuma La (4, 950m) & Lingshet (4,000m)

(Average walking time 5 to 6 hours)

 OPTION: LINGSHET TO RANGDUM

From Lingshet, there is a rather ill defined trail leading to Rangdum. The route crosses the Kesi la to the north of the Hanuma la, and then the Pingdon la, before passing the base of the Kanji la to Rangdum. In places the trail is hard for horses. Three stages should be reserved to complete the trek.

Day 06: Lingshet To Bas Of Singge La

(Average walking time 5 to 6 hours)

Day 07: Singge La (5,050m) To Photaksar (4,200m)

(Average walking time 5 to 6 hours)

Day 08: Photaksar To Sisir La (4, 850m) & Honupatta (3, 760m)

(Average walking time 6 hours)

Day 09: Honupatta To Wanlah (3,250m)

(Average walking time 5 hours) Day

10: Wanlah To Lamayuru

(Average walking time 3 to 4 hours)

GETTING AWAY: The following morning it is advisable to be at the trailhead by 7.00 am to meet the first of the truck and bus convoys going to Leh. If one is going to Kargil, one can enjoy a sleep-in, as the vehicles do not normally arrive at Lamayuru until early afternoon, to arrive in Kargil that evening.

PADUM TO LEH VIA CHA LA

RUBRANG LA & MARKHA VALLEY

Highest Altitude: 3,850m

Duration: 7 Days

Trekking in Padum or Padam, the capital of Zanskar region, opens up several outlying villages and monasteries, which form the nucleus of the region. This hard but very rewarding trek takes one from Padum to Zangla. As on the Padum-Lamayuru Trek and is only recommended for the second half of August because from Zangla to Markha many crossings have to be made over large rivers.

Day 01: Padum To Zangla

(Average walking time 7 hours)

There is a choice of routes to Zangla. The first is to go via Karsha monastery, and then continue down the true left side of the Zanskar valley to Pishu village, where one crosses the bridge to Zangla. The alternative route is to cross the bridge over the Tsarap River at Padum, and then continue down the true right side of the Zanskar valley via the village of Stongde (also spelt as Stongdey).

Day 02: Zangla To Cha Base

(Average walking time 3 hours)

Day 03: Cha La Base To Camp

(Average walking time 6 hours)

Day 04: Camp To Tilat Sumdo

(Average walking time 6 hours)

In some maps and guidebooks there is a trail marked down the Khurna River from Tilat Sumdo to the Zanskar River and on to the confluence with Markha valley. This track is probably a late winter or early spring track, which the locals follow after some sections of the ice on the Zanskar River begin to melt. There is no summer trail along the Zanskar River between the Khurna and Markha Rivers.

Day 05: Tilat Sumdo To Base Of Rubrang La

(Average walking time 5 to 6 hours)

Day 06: Rubrang La Base To Markha

(Average walking time 6 hours)

Day 07: Markha To Leh

(Average walking time 6 hours)

From Markha village, the trek to Leh can be completed in three or four stage. The options are either: continue down the Markha valley, and then comes to Gonda la to the Indus valley and Leh; or go up to the valley to Nimaling, and cross the Kongmaru la to Hemis in the Indus valley.

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PADUM TO DRACHA VIA SHINGO LA

Highest Altitude: 5, 090m

Duration: 7 Days

Alternate Trek: Dracha To Padum

The climb to Shingo La is not hard by Himalayan standers, and can be completed in a couple of hours too, but it may take a little longer early in the season when the approach is completely under snow. A series of prayer flags marks the Shingo La. It is set beneath an impressive backdrop of 6,000m snow-capped peaks defining both the main Himalayas and the Baralacha Range.

Day 01: Padum To Mune (3, 900m)

(Average walking time 6 hours)

Day 02: Mune To Purne (3,700m)

(Average walking time 8 hours)

Day 03: Purne To Phugtal & Tetha (3,950m)

(Average walking time 4 hours)

Day 04: Tetha To Kargyok (4,050m)

(Average walking time 7 hours)

Day 05: Kargyok To Lakong (4,470m)

(Average walking time 6 to 7 hours)

Day 06: Lakhong To Rumjak (4,290m)

(Average walking time 6 to 7 hours)

Day 07: Rumjak To Darcha (3,350m)

(Average walking time 6 to 7 hours)

GETTING AWAY: At Darcha there are tea stalls, and an adequate campsite. The local bus to Manali departs early in the morning. If heading north, there are also regular truck convoys, which could provide a lift to the Indus valley and Leh.

Alternate Trek

TREKKING FROM DARCHA TO PADUM

Many trekkers follow the above trek from Padum to Darcha in the opposite direction. If one follows this route it is essential that one spend at least a few extra days acclimatizing before crossing the Shingo la.

Day 01: Plan to trek from Darcha to Jankar Sumdo. This should take around seven to eight hours. Here one can spend a rest day before making it up to the stone shelter huts at Chumik (4,640m) below the Shingo la on the following stage.

Day 02: The next stage over the Shingo la to Lakong in the upper Zanskar valley taken six to seven hours. The pass crossing is not so arduous when compared with other passes over the main Himalayan range. From camp, there is a gradual ascent for the first 2½ hours to reach the terminal moraine at the base of the pass. The trail then steepens, crossing a rocky slope to the true right of the glacier before rounding a large crevasse to a Chorten in the center of the valley. This is not the top of the pass. However, most of the climb is over, and a gradual ascent to the pass follows. The pass is marked by a series of cairns and Mani walls draped in prayer flags.

Day 03: The initial descent from the pass is quite steep, and care must be exercised when crossing the snowfield as it is often very icy just beneath the surface. The route heads to the left of the valley across scree slopes before the final descent to the valley floor. After crossing a large side stream there is a choice of campsites on the meadows known locally as Lokong (4,470m). There are no tea stalls, but there are shepherds' huts where one can shelter overnight.

Day 04: From Lakong, it is a further six to seven hours trek to Kargyak. From there on to Padum, allow four stages. The first takes one to Tetha village and the second to Purne and Phugtal monastery. The third stage would see one at Reru and the fourth stage at Padum, with time that day to organize onward transport to Kargil.